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Knit Cloud 9 Sweater
The fluffiest, coziest sweater of the season is here! The Knit Cloud 9 Sweater will make you feel in absolute heaven and no one, not even you, will want to stop hugging it! It doesn’t get more hygge then this! 😉
I love making garments, but alas I’m still something of a newbie. The first sweater I ever made was last year when I made the Sweet Knit Sweater based on a KAL hosted by Swerella. Even though I didn’t really do the KAL, I did finish my sweater and the feeling was amazin’! Since then, I’ve been eager to make more garments.
I had been toying with the idea of making a faux fur sweater for a while, and a few months ago it just… clicked. I think it clicked as a result of seeing (and proudly buying!) Knitatude’s designs. Chantal Miyagishima is the genius behind Knitatude and to me, she is one of the best knit-designers around. Check her Instagram (@knitatude) and see for yourself! Her designs are stunning and her circular yokes have definitely inspired me to try it out!
Now, what is one of the first things that come to mind when you think of making a sweater with faux fur yarn? Probably something like “ARE YOU CRAZY???” And it’s absolutely true. This design is not for the faint of heart. Working with faux fur yarn is a bit difficult because you cannot see your stitches. You can try to feel them, but even then, it’s complicated. I tried crocheting with it, and I just gave up. I couldn’t work like that. And this is why I turned to knit! You don’t have to see the stitches, they’re all perfectly lined up in your needles! Now, this I can work with!! 😀
The trick for me was having a lot of stitch markers, always counting my stitches and keep a row counter at all times! The stitch markers are a life savior to help keep count. Also, I used thread to secure the last row before a round of increases or decreases. This way, if anything went not so well, I could always frog securely to that round.
I’ve used Katia Velour in white and black and it is as soft as it seems! And although you may have the occasional sneeze, it doesn’t shed. You’re safe to wear it with whatever you want and you won’t have fur all over your clothing, so YAY for that! Another great thing is that is absolutely soft on your hands while working. No chaffing at all!
So there I was, with a few skeins of faux fur yarn that felt like a cloud in my hands. By that time I knew I was going to try knitting a top-down sweater. I was going for the circular yoke and the seamless options. But what was it going to make it stand out? What was it going to add some fun to it? And the answer to this was… Bobbles!!! 😀
The black bobbles add a different texture to this otherwise blanket of clouds and make it as fun to wear as to knit!
Of course that at the time I thought of bobbles I had no idea how to make them. However, after some research, I could even be so picky as to say that I wanted a specific type of bobble! So, if you’re worried that the bobbles are going to make this a complex project, don’t be. The real trouble is making sure that you don’t drop any stitches! But hey, even if you do (and I did) the fabric is very forgiving and you can’t really see it! 😉
So, are you ready to feel as happy as ever in the Knit Cloud 9 sweater? Let’s dive in!
- PIN this pattern for later HERE!
The fluffiest, coziest sweater of the season is here! The Knit Could 9 Sweater will make you feel in absolute heaven and no one, not even you, will want to stop hugging it! Knit top-down, in the round, and seamless, it is as hygge as it gets!
- Easy + // Advanced Beginner
Have in Hand
- Katia Velour [Weight 4/Medium, 3 ½ oz /100 gr, 164 yds/150 m]
- 4 skeins 75 Off-white
- 1 skein 58 Black
- US size 8 (5.0 mm) knitting circular needles with a 60” cord
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle, measuring tape, scissors
- 14 sts x 27 rows: 4”/10 cm
IMPORTANT NOTE: At the moment the pattern is only written for size S. I have graded it for sizes XS- 3X but I would like to have each size tested at least once before publishing it. If you would like to try it out, please contact me!
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- BO: bind off
- CO: cast on
- k: knit
- kfb: knit 1 into front and back of a stitch; single knit increase
- k2tog: knit 2 stitches together; single knit decrease
- pm: place marker
- sl: slip
- st(s): stitch(es)
- t: turn
- yo: yarn over
gsb: garter stitch bobble
Work these instructions in the same stitch: K1, yo, k1, yo, k1 <5>. * T, k5. <5> Repeat from * 3 more times. Sl 3 sts. ** Pass the 2nd st on your left needle over the st on the edge of the left needle as if to BO. <4> Move the resulting st to the right needle. Pass the 2nd st on your right needle over the st on the edge of the right needle as if to BO. <3> Move the resulting st to the left needle. Repeat from ** one more time. You’ll have 1 st on your right needle that corresponds to your garter bobble st.
- The sweater is worked top-down making a circular yoke and then working the body and sleeves separately.
- For this pattern, I used a long-tail cast on.
- For reference, the model is wearing size S and has a bust size of 34”/86.5 cm.
- The sweater has about 1” of negative ease, but the yarn is quite stretchy, so the sweater is not too form-fitting.
- Use a thread to secure the round before one with increases or decreases to ensure that you can frog safely if needed.
- If you have trouble making the garter stitch bobble, check the third method explained in this video.
- When making your bobbles, tighten your stitches as much as you can, otherwise, you’ll have holes around it.
- After separating the arms from the body you may find holes under the arms. Use spare yarn to close them up.
- After finishing the yoke, try it on so as to make sure that it fits correctly in bust and arms. Knit more rows if necessary, but don’t forget this will add to yardage.
Knit Cloud 9 Sweater
The project will always be worked in the round. To help you keep count, in the first round, place markers every 4 stitches, as mentioned in the pattern.
Round 1: Joining in the round, * pm, k4. Repeat from * across. <72>
Round 2: * kfb, k. Repeat from * across. You will have 6 sts between markers. <108>
Round 3-16: k all sts. <108>
Round 17: * kfb, k. Repeat from * across. You will have 9 sts between markers. <162>
Round 18: k all sts. <162>
Round 19: * gsb, k17. <162>
Round 20 – 32: k all sts. <162>
Round 33: * kfb, k2. Repeat from * across. You will have 12 sts between markers <216>.
Round 34 – 56: k all sts. <216>
Try the yoke on. Pinch the front to the back under your arms and make sure there’s room for your bust and arms. Knit more rows if necessary to make sure it fits comfortably, but don’t forget this will add to yardage.
Separating Body and Sleeves
Start counting from the beginning of the round. You will not need the markers as they are, so you can take them out as you prepare to separate the body from the sleeves.
Count 50 sts and place these on spare yarn. This will be one of the arms. Count 58 more. Place the next 50 sts on spare yarn. This will be the other arm. You should have 58 more until you reach the end of the round.
The 116 sts that are not on spare yarn will make the body. Place them on your circular needles to continue working them in the round.
Round 57 – 127: k all sts. <116>
BO all sts loosely.
Place the 50 sts that were on spare yarn on your needles to continue working in the round.
Round 56 – 147: k all sts. <50>
Round 148: * gsb, k9. Repeat from * across. <50>
Round 149 – 158: k all sts. <50>
Round 159: *k3, k2tog. Repeat from * across. <40>
Round 160: *k2, k2tog. Repeat from * across. <30>
Round 161: *k4, k2tog. Repeat from * across. <24>
Round 162: k all sts. <24>
Weave in ends.